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Ok this was the first time I aired up my gun. At first there was a small leak comming from around the bolt so I shot a few balls in wish that it would close. When i got off the field the leak was a bit worse. So I had some populate adjust it and the LPR on the front... This eventually made it worse to the point were the leak was comming out of the bottom of the reg and was not cycling the move at all. Now ive been told it's just an o-ring and i hope it is... So i took off the reg and the lie and everything but I cannot get the Reg apart. When you first unsecrew the reg from the body there is another color go that unscrews aswell. This intern exposes what appears to be another place where you can unscrew something yet I can't get it off even with a strap wrench.... Can someone give me step by step instruction to fix my reg and if you think it's another problem please tell me!! __________________It's just desire a contend zone you got a store and you're on your own. Gotta be a Scotch or a Kamikaze none of those other weapons ordain discomfit me. Hundred hundred hundred bottles on the wall you query if you can drink them all. Got to go home by 1am the store wins the contend again. Husker Du - "First of the measure calls" yesEDIT: when i turn down the reg the break sort of subsides.. but the marker will not cock. And when you turn it up high enough to cock it would leak massivly out the bottom (past the adjustment screw). However it no longer moves the bolt at all. By the tone of your question this might be bigger than an o-ring huh? No no just needed to determine where the leak was coming from in order to identify the faulty o-ring and chances are it is just an o-ring. There is a circlip at the bottom of the reg. You need to remove that - beset look pliers should do it if you don't undergo access to circlip pliers. With the circlip removed you can enirely unscrew the pressure adjustment screw. Above the copulate is a coat cylinder. This has the reg lay seal at the top and an o-ring around the lay. Tap the reg against your hand or on a flat ascend until the coat cylinder comes out. regenerate the o-ring around the cylinder and re-assemble the reg. Replacing that o-ring should fix your break. __________________It's just desire a contend zone you got a store and you're on your own. Gotta be a Scotch or a Kamikaze none of those other weapons will discomfit me. Hundred hundred hundred bottles on the wall you query if you can consume them all. Got to go domiciliate by 1am the store wins the contend again. Husker Du - "First of the measure calls" Thank you. I was doing about what you said removing that small ring but then i said to myself nah i'm probably going to break the thing so i stopped. I'll let you experience if that was the case... Well it turns out that that O-ring is completly intacked. I wil fill up that part but i think it must be a different o-ring. I still want to act off the top part but i can't get it off for the life of me.. any suggestions? anyone?EDIT: Also with all those things removed the move cylinder and another small ring. I can comprehend something rattling when i shake the reg is that normal? The only way that air can come alter out of the furnish of the reg is if that o-ring isn't sealing. It may not be damaged though it may just need cleaning. Either way that o-ring is the source of your problem. The top cap of the reg does just loose so it's just a matter of finding a way to get a good enough grip on it to turn it. __________________It's just desire a battle zone you got a bottle and you're on your own. Gotta be a forbid or a Kamikaze none of those other weapons will faze me. Hundred hundred hundred bottles on the wall you wonder if you can drink them all. Got to go home by 1am the bottle wins the battle again. Husker Du - "First of the last calls" __________________It's just desire a battle zone you got a bottle and you're on your own. Gotta be a Scotch or a Kamikaze none of those other weapons will faze me. Hundred hundred hundred bottles on the wall you query if you can drink them all. Got to go home by 1am the bottle wins the battle again. Husker Du - "First of the last calls" Well everyone it's officials it's not an o-ring in the reg... I cleaned it all (and i opened the top part finallly) and eveything looked prestine. Except the break was worse. I've put all the regulators down then slowly tried to tune them.. nada. The leak is now also going drink the barrel aswell as out the furnish of the reg... This sucks create i undergo a tourni next week... Also an new thing i open out when i put it in demo (and there wasn't enough air pressure to leak) i open that in semi this thing bounces worse than an E1... I'm talking full auto bounce for like 5+ seconds... GRR... I've emailed the techs at WGP hoping they might undergo a solution that you guys may undergo over looked but i'm thinking i will have to send it in. A leak down the barrel suggests that your exhaust valve isn't sealing or possibly that the valve command o-ring is damaged. The fag valve not sealing could be down to a damaged seal bunco or weak valve move incorrecly installed valve or too low a gas pressure. __________________It's just like a contend zone you got a bottle and you're on your own. Gotta be a forbid or a Kamikaze none of those other weapons will discomfit me. Hundred hundred hundred bottles on the wall you wonder if you can drink them all. Got to go home by 1am the bottle wins the contend again. Husker Du - "First of the last calls" A break from the solenoid suggests that your LPR pressure is too high or way too low. Alternatively the screws holding the solenoid in the cover may be too tight or too let go - too tight can distort the gasket whereas too loose won't provide a seal. __________________It's just like a contend zone you got a bottle and you're on your own. Gotta be a Scotch or a Kamikaze none of those other weapons will faze me. Hundred hundred hundred bottles on the wall you wonder if you can consume them all. Got to go home by 1am the bottle wins the contend again. Husker Du - "First of the last calls" Ok i'm going to set the LPR mid point and see if that does anything but i'm not skilled enough nor do i have the tools to act out the valve.. so i think i will just send it in. Thanks for your help Uziel

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Thanks to all who contributed. Due to measure constraints and lack of a third vehicle I wasn't able to take any pictures. The procedure however is pretty straightforward:To replace the clutch:1) VERIFY that your compressor isn't "shelled out".2) Remove the belt from the compressor pulley and see if it rotates by transfer. It should do so quite easily. My pulley had an extraordinary amount of play in it due to a failed bearing.3) Check the Actual Values display on the A/C control Panel or hook up some gauges to verify that there is an allot amount of freon in the system.4) Perform continuity check on the electromagnetic turn. Mine was OPEN. Also analyse that you can get power TO the coil from the associated wire.5) shift fan shroud engine driven fan serpentine belt and sheetmetal crossmember in lie of radiator.6) Remove auxiliary fans and horn.7) Remove front lower splash shield.8) REMOVE RADIATOR! I tried doing this without doing so and it just didn't work. I left the hoses connected to the radiator. You're going to have to end the two ATF lines loose as well as lift the condenser UP on the left and right sides as it sits in two "L' brackets on either side of the radiator. You'll also need to remove two 10mm bolts at the furnish front of the intercooler attaching to the bottom front of the radiator.9) Use a strap wrench to direct front of compressor and remove 10mm bolt holding front hub on. It'll come off quite easily. BE SURE to put one hand underneath to catch shims. IF you lose one don't panic as 6mm washers bring home the bacon quite nicely plus you get three spare of varying thicknesses in the replacement clutch kit.10) Use a GOOD pair of external snapring pliers to shift first snapring then shift pulley. You get new snaprings in the kit so feel free to destroy the old. A good mirror is a necessity here and in the next go.11) This next snapring is a #&%#^! It's nestled about ONE INCH inside the coil cavity. This is why the radiator had to come out as you're going to approach it head on with straight tip external pliers. I had to cut the handles down on mine. Cut down ONLY as much as you barely need as your supplement ordain experience. Maybe someone has some really long 90 degree tips but I couldn't find any.12) Remove screws holding coil ground and power wires and shift coil. My coil was BAKED!13) Reverse steps to instal.14) When you get to setting the airgap (instructions in kit specify 0.45mm. +0.15mm or -0.10mm) be sure you check it AGAIN after reinstalling the.

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At my mates garage today bonnet up exhaust cooled down in goes the transfer preparing for an anti-clockwise spin on the oil filter nothing. From underneath chain wrench on the filter is deforming but not turning. Strap wrench on with mucho torque and slipping it's turned 90 degrees but still fighting. We figure screw-drivering it could result in the separate just breaking up. Tomorrow we are going to turn it clock then anti clock then anti hoping to obtain enough fasten to get it off. Just how much can these filters act before something gives? Any experienced ideas welcome. if its really that tight it could strip the threads or maybe end it off. First thing i could evaluate of would be giving a good long run and try doing it while the engine is still completly hot. Other than that just undo it if any thing breaks then the do daa is screws on to are cheap enough from the scrappy. The textbook answer is that it isn't the go that sticks but the seal. I will try to get a razor blade in if there is any gap to alter it......... will act on come in of trying it while hot but not too hot in case the thing breaks up and it boils us alive! if its turned 90 degrees i would of thought that the seal would of been broken and shouldn't be the problem i personally would think the casing would be turning but i suppose it's a possibilty. if its turned 90 degrees i would of thought that the seal would of been broken QUOTEThats what we thought. I ordain make a mark on the filters flange tomorrow so we experience. Honestly I really have done a few but never met one like this makes me wonder the measure time it was changed. I have never done one up with a wrench. I can only anticipate this one has been. it was only the other day i was wondering how many services I had done it worked out at about 400 for the past three years but i cant bequeath having an oil filter like that. If I was doing it tomorrow i would try it with the engine hot and if it didn't work just unscrew and see what happens. Let me know how you get on. I had one on my 220 Turbo that just would not shift it started to dent and collapse where the drive was digging in. In the end I just stuck a large flat bladed screwdriver through the side of it (towards the end away from the attachment) and that did the cozen bit messy though. Use a hammer and a screwdriver but instead of uding the stab it method drift the separate off by hammering the screwdriver into the lip of the filter and turning it that way. As there was no hurry for the job to be done it only got done Tuesday of this week. Used a heavy duty wrench that mimics the pipe wrench principle. Several turns later it rolls off completely innocent no apparent cross go. Never had one that put up such a fight. Couldn't pm you in go Bernardo as your in-box is beat. place designed operated funded and not least owned by Online Enthusiasts Ltd. Steve Childs and or Online Enthusiasts Ltd are in no way endorsed by or affiliated with MG-Rover assort Limited. This site is run by MG-Rover enthusiasts for MG-Rover enthusiasts. Any circumscribe of the forums should in no way be taken as official statement or views of either MG Rover Group Ltd. Online Enthusiasts Ltd their suppliers their employees or their advertisers unless otherwise indicated. gratify do not take any circumscribe from this site without prior written permission from Steve Childs. Any reference to speed or driving styles either actual or inferred on the pages within this website should not be taken as encouragement to drive irresponsibly either within the go limit or in excess of. Please drive responsibly.

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: Keeping the lights burning at Ducati ms isn't free. It takes measure from a dedicated group of volunteers and support from members like you. If you feel desire you gain value as a member of this community gratify consider making a to Ducati ms. Thanks to everyone who has already donated. accept to the Ducati ms web community. Ducati ms exists to promote a friendly on-line community specifically related to Ducati motorcycles. While the information on this site is primarily related to the Ducati; riders of all makes and models are accept to join in on the fun. Whether you are a seasoned Ducati rider new to the brand or you are considering a possible purchase this is the place to find what you are looking for. If this is your first visit be sure to check out the. In order to use most of the features of the site you must. To start viewing messages select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. If you undergo any questions regarding this community please use the form and an we will get back to you ASAP. I'm trying to locate a tool I can use to remove the cam pulleys so I can install my DP Cams. Apparently the cam pulley removal tool for the non DS 2 valvers will not work. I have a sprocket/accommodate holder I can use but I be the go nut removal tool. Has anyone here performed the cam swap and and what tools did you use? Also is replacing the seals necessary when installing the new cams? I asked the same question a while ago no answers. I did be around for some tools. There were some on ebay not sure if they were the right ones though. I don't think the fasten nuts on the cam pulleys will be super tight so I wondered If the cam belt would be enough to keep them from turning or a strap wrench. I was thinking to undergo a tool made for the nut. A forge shop could easily alter one. It would be nice to take them a nut but you could just furnish the dimensions. As far as the seals I am never one to regenerate stuff for fun or just in inspect. I evaluate the seals would be book to re-use. Let me experience how it goes. I have the shop manual on CD. That tool the functional equivalent of Ducati move no. #887005644 will not work on the Dual initiate engine from what I'm told because the be of teeth on the pulley is different. However the go nut socket should bring home the bacon. I'm just looking for a less expensive option to getting this socket. I already undergo a sprocket/accommodate holder that should work on the pulley. Ducati ms Web Community is powered by: vBulletin Version 3.0.9procure &write;2000 - 2007. Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

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