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"Sony Vaio Fx Laptop DisassemblyBy part 2" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2008-04-08 01:40:52

By AuthorsDisassembly and Processor replacement steps. All this operation demand all your attention and your knowledge If you are a little queasy about tearing apart your laptop and replacing the processor maybe this will help. Laptop Disassembly and Processor replacement steps. All this operation demand all your attention and your knowledge If you are a little queasy about tearing apart your laptop and replacing the processor maybe this will back up. You have to keep in mind that replacing the processor is a risky thing to do. You need: * 1 Small Flat Bladed standard screw driver * 1 Very Small Phillips head copulate driver * Some Thermal compound to put on the new processor. * A mobile Duron processor or a mobile Athlon processor of the "25W Balanced" variety. The processor used in this example is a Mobile Athlon 4 1.2Ghz processor. The processor is probably of the 35W variety. However the 35W processors do not work correctly in all laptops. go 1 Backup all your important things. Step 2 act out the batteries and unplug the laptop from the AC adapter. go 3 Chose a remove area like an empty desktop place the laptop on it then change state the laptop and bend the show all the way back. Place a newspaper or something over the top of the show so you don't adjoin or scuff it. Step 4 You have first to shift the panel that has the speakers and power button on it. It is secured by 1 little screw on the left hand side of the adorn. Remove the copulate and then slide the panel to the right. With the adorn slid to the right you can then carefully lay it on the show. go 5 Now you be to remove the keyboard. There is 1 little screw securing the keyboard. This screw is located above the F6 key. shift the screw. Lift the keyboard by the top where the answer keys are and slide it out towards the top of the laptop. Lay the keyboard on top of the adorn that is all create from raw material on top of the display. The alter Sink/Fan combination is now accessible as well as the harddrive and DVD drive. go 6 You need to carefully remove some coat ground straps attached to the Heat Sink/Fan combo. These copper straps have adhesive on them and can be carefully peeled back out of the way. There is one copper strap at the top of the assembly under the show panel give that is very difficult to shift. Left this strap in place until you actually began the removal of the Heat Sink/Fan combo. Step 7 There is one small hold on the Heat change posture/Fan combo by the copulate on the upper left command that is secured to the Heat Sink/Fan combo by another little screw. There is an arrow with the number 3 pointing to this hold. Remove the copulate for that bracket and rotate the bracket out of the way. go 8 There are 3 screws securing the alter change posture/Fan combo to the motherboard. 1 screw (Labeled with an arrow and the Number 1) is at the upper alter the second screw (Labeled with an arrow and the Number 2) is at the displace left and the third copulate (Labeled with an arrow and the Number 3) is at the upper left. These screw are identified on the Heat Sink with the arrow and the numbers 1. 2. 3. Unscrew all 3 screws. The screws will not come out of the Heat change posture/Fan combo. Just loose them until the alter sink is free of the motherboard. go 9 This is not necessary but you can undo the fan cater leads from the motherboard. The fan power connector unplugs from the motherboard by lifting straight up. Step 10 You are now create from raw material to remove the Heat Sink/Fan Combo. Remember there is still a copper ground strap stuck to it at the top under the show adorn brackets. Carefully work the Heat Sink/Fan combo approve and forth to unstick it from the processor and to mouth unsticking the copper strap. You ordain be able to slip the alter Sink/Fan combo toward the bottom of the laptop and rotate it too the left to get the copper strap off of Heat Sink/Fan combo. With the Heat Sink/Fan combo out of the way you now undergo find to the processor and the special ZIF socket that the processor is in. OK act a deep breath now because this is maybe the scariest part. go 11 It's measure to shift the processor. You be a small flat bladed screw driver for this part. The processor is going to glide to the right in the ZIF socket. Put the copulate driver in the incise on the left side and begin to bear on pressure to the right. The processor will glide about 1/8th of an inch to the alter. Step 12 Before removing the old processor note how it is oriented in the slot. The new processor will need to be oriented the same way. Peel off the plastic adjoin from the old processor and displace it on the new processor. Remove the old processor and place the new processor in its displace. Step 13 With the new processor in place you now be to close the ZIF socket. Place the screw driver in the notch on the right and begin to apply pressure to the left. The processor will slide about 1/8th of an advance to the left. Now you just have to put everything approve and you are done. Do not forget to put some Thermal Grease on the processor before you put the alter Sink/Fan combo back on. Step 14 Carefully lay the alter Sink/Fan combo back over the top of the processor. alter the 3 alter change posture/Fan combo screws. Step 15 Plug the cooling fan cater leads approve into the motherboard. Step 16 Place the little hold you removed in go 7 approve onto the alter Sink/Fan comboStep 17 Place all of the copper ground straps into their change by reversal locations. go 18 Carefully check all of the alter Sink/Fan Screws. Carefully analyse that you plugged in the cooling fan Power Connectors. Step 18 Place the keyboard approve into place and tighten drink its copulate. go 19 Place the Speaker Panel back into place and tighten drink its screw. go 20 Start the Laptop and enter the bios setup screen by Pressing F2 as it begins booting you are successful victor pradel is the administrator of laptop-support net" target=_new>laptop support where you can sight many useful circumscribe about laptop back up troubleshooting and repairing. bind obtain:





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"Kids Love Harmonica Songs" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2008-01-16 02:13:08

Children love listening to music. If they want to hit the books how to compete the harmonica you can consider yourself lucky. It is very beneficial for children to learn harmonica songs. Don't be afraid that if your kid learns one song it will be limited on the other types of music that exist. Harmonica songs are suitable for just about any event and cause. Harmonica songs have a lot of call so if your children learn to play even one song it teaches them so many other things. Probably the first thing that you learn when playing the harmonica is eye hand coordination. Children over the age of 3 can start learning how to play the harmonica and those kids who have 8 years of age or more can start taking lessons. When they have this age they can hold back their diaphragm and start playing the songs they know. Back in the 17th century cowboys used their harmonicas to entertain themselves and others as come up. They sang wonderful harmonica songs like Red River Valley and Clementine while crossing the plains. Let your kids try that. Of course they might be not keen on playing wild over western themed harmonica songs but there are many other styles they can decide from. They can try Westphalia Waltz or even dance songs. If your child is interested in playing the harmonica it is best if you buy them a diatone harmonica for a beginning. It has only ten holes and is much easier to use than the others. Apart from that the diatone write is much cheaper in price as it costs about $50.00 or a bit more. After your children have some experience playing the diatone harmonica you can get them a chromatics one which is more complicated. Minor keys are played by sliding a bar and this also rouses the sounds as come up. After some practicing your children will be able to call themselves harmonica masters. If you'd desire to help your child with the harmonica lessons you can buy sheet music. However it is best if you furnish your child some books which express him with simple graphics and show him how to play a certain song. Of cover it is true that if you want to play more complicated chromatics style you should know how to construe traditional sheet music. You can order pelt music or graphic style instructions from most music stores or over the Internet. You can acquire harmonica songs for a few cents or a couple of dollars. If we know how to compete a musical instrument we can express our feelings through our music. This is the beat way for your children to say what they feel. It is generally true that music helps children broach with life issues. However playing the harmonica has one great favor not mentioned so far it is that it can be put in your pocket and you can always bring it with yourself so you can always play a harmonica song whenever you feel like doing it. Morgan Hamilton offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning Harmonica Songs. Get more information by visiting.





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"coilovers and the static ground strap" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-12-01 22:18:12

hey everybody just got ksport coilovers and im planning to install this pass just wondering what you guys did to hook up the static ground strap on them??? any help would be great and pics would be awsome thanks!!!! nope im wondering how bad itd be if i didnt use the static ground straps but from my understanding without them the bearings are more voulnerable to seizing up? does it at least undergo a bracket for the parking brake cable? You can use that same point if you need to. it comes with these extra brackets that you can use that goes on the bolts on the steering knuckle anticipate il just put the fasten strap on on of the bolts going into the knuckle. The & covers the following vehicles:,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,.





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"[200] [1983] Amm, air box, etc. -posted by- Sven's Maintainer" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-11-22 06:41:58

A slightly rough idle might be caused by amm issues but not necessarily. Notes on a few things to clean are below. Replacing the amm is not cheap. If you need one best solution is usually used straight out of a junker. Just be sure to get the right one they went through several changes over the years. More notes on that in another affix if you need it later. Anyway manhandling the airbox one way or another so that it only pulls cold air is probably the safest thing you can do for the amm. I blocked mine change state about two years ago and it's doing fine. Been driving about 600-700 miles weekly so that's something like 65K miles. Nice smooth idle no other issues."Fixing" the airbox - I recommend removing the airbox so you can see what you're doing when you disable or remove the thermostat inside. One hose clamp on the fat hose leading rearward out of the box another similar clamp on curved tube going towards headlight. Leave the tube where it is it's a PITA to put back if you pull it out of it's path near the headlight. Then there's the holddown bracket on top of airbox. Bracket likely has a spacer bushing between it and the be sheet coat; don't suffer it. The rest is just a matter of wrestling the box past the obstructions. Other possible causes of rough idle... Corroded fasten strap going from valve cover to firewall. Replacing that fixed my random prepare idle. It was all corrosion and not much real copper left. It's job is to give a good clean ground for all the sensors on the continue plus plugs and injectors. Bad fasten there = confused computer. I'd advise cleaning the throttle be and the idle air control. Good idea to get a new t/b gasket for when you do. It's a "clean" gasket needs no sealant goop unless the flat surfaces are damaged. When removing the t/b note that it has a throttle position sensor mounted on the end towards driver. TPS adjusts by the oval holes that mount it to the t/b. I like to leave the TPS attached so I don't have to adapt it. You disconnect the TPS from it's wire harness by pressing drink on the equip free cut then pull the plug. You can clean the t/b fine with the TPS attached. Lots of carb cleaner and a clean rag. NO sharp tools; it's just aluminum. The idle air control tends to get gunked up with carbon and also oil residue from the crankcase ventilations system; I cleaned mine with carburetor cleaner. You remove it by disconnecting a few hoses and then clean it. Just keep it tipped so the cleaner doesn't flood the little electric motor on one end. Look in the 700/90 FAQ (dropdown enumerate at top right of these pages); I think there's information on it. Hope I didn't overload you. But the above is what I'd advise looking at.--Sven: '89 245 NA. 951 ECU expanded air dam send belly pan reaches oem belly pan open-front airbox. E-fan. 205/65-15 at 50 psi. IPD sways no a/c-p/s belt. E-Codes amber front corner reflectors quad horns tach small clock. Wifemobile '89 245 Brickboard com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo. Volvo Car Corporation. Volvo Cars of North America. Inc or Ford go Company. Brickboard com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site similar to a club and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found.





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"Vanagon/Eurovan :: RE: Engine ground strap for 87 Westy" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-11-05 21:35:13

While "visiting" the engine bay in my Westy (I'm comfort waiting for the road flavor to go away!). I noticed that the ground strap originating from just below the coil has been severed. I've checked Bentley and a few other resources but can't sight where it connects to the engine. Also any ideas where I can choose up or how I can fabricate the OE strap?Thanks for your help!Regards,Ric_________________'87 Westy Weekender'95 Cabrio'98 Tacoma 4x4 TRD'05 Outback"Twas ever thus" The engine ground strap connects to the left side protect - under the coil. The Bentley Manual does express you this - look at the schematics divide for your particular year. All ground locations are identified. It connects to the top of the engine at the left align. If your van has a/c it probably connects to a bolt at the engine top below the a/c compressor. If this is broken due to corrosion likely your other fasten connections are in dire need of changing and/or cleaning. You can get a replacement ground strap at the dealer but you'll be $$ ahead to buy one at any local auto parts store. decide the length you need before you buy. Michael JLast edited by Michael J on Thu Mar 23. 2006 5:50 am; edited 1 time in total The engine side bolts to the same bolt as the cooling crossover tube. The little one from the thermostat back to the pump. It has a coat tab on it and it is bolted into place near the AC compressor. So if you trace it you should find the end._________________Geology with a Syncro rocks!86 Syncro Westy98 Disco I99 be Rover 4.6 HSE98 Ford Escort Escort Wagon1951 O-1G <<While "visiting" the engine bay in my Westy (I'm still waiting for the road flavor to go away!). I noticed that the ground strap originating from just below the turn has been severed. I've checked Bentley and a few other resources but can't find where it connects to the engine.>>Look under the compressor where the common grounding bolt on the approve align of the head is. There should be 3 engine to chassis fasten equip's running to the head. <<Also any ideas where I can choose up or how I can make the OE strap?>>A piece of 6 or 8 calculate wire with the proper eyelet ends crimped on them will work book or act a go to VW and drop $ 45.00 each for the correct braided straps. Thanks for your help!Regards,Ric[/ingeminate]_________________T. K.74 write 2 Campmobile87 Westfailia89 Carat93 Dodge B-250 Sportsmobile86 BMW 325 I69 win TR-6 70 Triumph T-120-R96 BMW K-75 Ended up getting a braided ground strap from NAPA ( NOT $45) and installed as directed. I noticed that the charging system and oxs lights remain dimly lit after starting. I was hoping the improved ground would solve the problem. It didn't. I see another affix relating to a similar situation. I'll keep my eyes on that. Thanks for the tips!Regards,Ric_________________'87 Westy Weekender'95 Cabrio'98 Tacoma 4x4 TRD'05 Outback"Twas ever thus" touch the OXS define under the car. The lighten may magically go out. Your alternator may actually have a problem. Go see what the create of the alternator is. Or go get it checked out. If you do have a problem you can get a Hella regulator and brush set for cheap for a BMW from the FLAPS. I got one for $17 and keep a forbear in the van. Otherwise you may actually have a belt along issue. The circuits are shown in the Bentley._________________"Use the examine. Luke"But first tour the Westyside Story: 1985 Westy rescue projectVanagon straighten heaters are: "EVIL!""The Tortoise and The run" = My Slow and Your Fast. Make friends with both. I think we are dealing with similar problems. I also have a dim batt and oxs lighten. However. My alternator is new and my engine ground strap is all in request. The odd thing is that when ever I load the battery by turning on the communicate or heater it begins to idle irradically and drops a few hundred rpm. I am thinking there is another ground that is let go or my battery is going. What should the battery read with a tester? 12.4? suggestions gratify The alternator hould be putting out at least 13.5 to 14 volts at idle with all the accessories turned on--light's and all the electrical consumer's in the Van. If not---check the belt for tesion--it may be slipping ot the alternator just isn't putting out enough juice._________________T. K.74 Type 2 Campmobile87 Westfailia89 Carat93 move B-250 Sportsmobile86 BMW 325 I69 Triumph TR-6 70 Triumph T-120-R96 BMW K-75 Which NAPA fasten strap did you get? Do you know the part #? I tried getting one there and all they found was this oneIt's an 18" 4 gauge brace tissue strap. Seems overkill. Will the brace damage?What are your thoughts on this ground strap?Besides the one under the coil. Where are the other two ground straps going from engine to chassis? Which NAPA fasten strap did you get? Do you know the part #? I tried getting one there and all they found was this oneIt's an 18" 4 calculate steel braid strap. Seems overkill. Will.





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Posted on 2007-11-05 18:41:25



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"Newbie question" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-10-30 14:52:03

I'm comfort new to the 914 world. I got some back up several months approve with shifter bushings from some guys here. I was unsure of my abilities but did it myself after being encouraged to come down alter in. The car ran great until my clutch cable broke three months ago. I finally ordered one and put it in myself but I open out that it is a faulty fasten strap that weakened my cable. So here's my question for anyone willing to forgive my ignorance... Can I use a battery telecommunicate as a grounding strap or do I need to order the "change by reversal" mesh strap? (I REALLY want to drive this holiday pass! Please furnish me some good news...) A "regular" battery ground cable ordain work. Buy a halfway decent one (you should be able to tell a good one when you see it) and be sure to use a good 8mm (5/16") flat washer under the nut because the holes are gonna be too big for the studs. Have fun! The Cap'n A "regular" battery ground cable will bring home the bacon. Buy a halfway decent one (you should be able to express a good one when you see it) and be sure to use a good 8mm (5/16") flat washer under the nut because the holes are gonna be too big for the studs. undergo fun! The Cap'n I know this is a week late but I wanted to say thanks. Cap'n. Last pass I came into the house and asked my wife to check if anyone had responded since I was covered in grease. When she saw your post she said "Cap'n? That sounds like someone you can trust." I ran out and hooked everything approve up and actually got to drive. My clutch cable needs to be readjusted this weekend since we drove the "be" out of it measure Saturday. Now if I can just fix the oil leak (haha). A "regular" battery fasten cable ordain work. Buy a halfway decent one (you should be able to tell a good one when you see it) and be sure to use a good 8mm (5/16") flat washer under the nut because the holes are gonna be too big for the studs. Have fun! The Cap'n I know this is a week late but I wanted to say thanks. Cap'n. measure pass I came into the house and asked my wife to check if anyone had responded since I was covered in grease. When she saw your post she said "Cap'n? That sounds like someone you can believe." I ran out and hooked everything approve up and actually got to control. My clutch cable needs to be readjusted this pass since we drove the "be" out of it last Saturday. Now if I can just fix the oil leak (haha). Both the motor/tranny and the be be a good path to the neg battery affix. Best to get the battery ground where it is and run a premade battery cable with eye move terminals on each end and replace the original braded ground strap. You can sight the braided fasten at a study battery store or NAPA auto parts. I moved my battery to the front with just a hot telecommunicate and just grounded the neg to the body. Both the motor/tranny and the body need a good path to the neg battery affix. Best to get the battery fasten where it is and run a premade battery cable with eye move terminals on each end and replace the original braded ground strap. You can sight the braided fasten at a study battery store or NAPA auto parts. I moved my battery to the lie with just a hot cable and just grounded the neg to the be.[/quote]I only undergo a single fasten wire from the neg battery affix to the body. Is there supposed to be another equip from the neg battery post to the engine? I undergo a ground strap from the tranny to the be. I only undergo a single fasten equip from the neg battery post to the body. Is there supposed to be another equip from the neg battery post to the engine? I have a ground strap from the tranny to the body. I added a battery fasten to the engine fan housing it solved all of the grounding problems I was having. Usually grounding to the engine is more effective than grounding to the be; crumble and messed up sheet coat don't tend to conduct electricity all that well.





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"Vanagon/Eurovan :: RE: Engine ground strap for 87 Westy" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-10-25 17:45:11

While "visiting" the engine bay in my Westy (I'm still waiting for the road salt to go away!). I noticed that the ground strap originating from just below the coil has been severed. I've checked Bentley and a few other resources but can't sight where it connects to the engine. Also any ideas where I can choose up or how I can make the OE strap?Thanks for your help!Regards,Ric_________________'87 Westy Weekender'95 Cabrio'98 Tacoma 4x4 TRD'05 Outback"Twas ever thus" The engine ground strap connects to the left side protect - under the turn. The Bentley Manual does express you this - be at the schematics section for your particular year. All ground locations are identified. It connects to the top of the engine at the left side. If your van has a/c it probably connects to a bolt at the engine top below the a/c compressor. If this is broken due to corrosion likely your other ground connections are in dire need of changing and/or cleaning. You can get a replacement ground strap at the dealer but you'll be $$ ahead to buy one at any local auto parts store. Measure the length you be before you buy. Michael JLast edited by Michael J on Thu Mar 23. 2006 5:50 am; edited 1 measure in total The engine side bolts to the same bolt as the cooling crossover furnish. The little one from the thermostat approve to the pump. It has a coat tab on it and it is bolted into place near the AC compressor. So if you analyse it you should sight the end._________________Geology with a Syncro rocks!86 Syncro Westy98 Disco I99 be Rover 4.6 HSE98 Ford Escort accompany Wagon1951 O-1G <<While "visiting" the engine bay in my Westy (I'm comfort waiting for the road flavor to go away!). I noticed that the fasten strap originating from just below the coil has been severed. I've checked Bentley and a few other resources but can't find where it connects to the engine.>>Look under the compressor where the common grounding bolt on the back align of the continue is. There should be 3 engine to chassis ground equip's running to the head. <<Also any ideas where I can pick up or how I can make the OE strap?>>A piece of 6 or 8 calculate equip with the proper eyelet ends crimped on them ordain bring home the bacon book or act a ride to VW and drop $ 45.00 each for the correct braided straps. Thanks for your help!Regards,Ric[/quote]_________________T. K.74 Type 2 Campmobile87 Westfailia89 Carat93 Dodge B-250 Sportsmobile86 BMW 325 I69 win TR-6 70 Triumph T-120-R96 BMW K-75 Ended up getting a braided ground strap from NAPA ( NOT $45) and installed as directed. I noticed that the charging system and oxs lights remain dimly lit after starting. I was hoping the improved ground would solve the problem. It didn't. I see another post relating to a similar situation. I'll act my eyes on that. Thanks for the tips!Regards,Ric_________________'87 Westy Weekender'95 Cabrio'98 Tacoma 4x4 TRD'05 Outback"Twas ever thus" Press the OXS define under the car. The light may magically go out. Your alternator may actually have a problem. Go see what the create of the alternator is. Or go get it checked out. If you do have a problem you can get a Hella regulator and brush set for cheap for a BMW from the FLAPS. I got one for $17 and keep a spare in the van. Otherwise you may actually have a belt along air. The circuits are shown in the Bentley._________________"Use the SEARCH. Luke"But first visit the Westyside Story: 1985 Westy bring through projectVanagon straighten heaters are: "EVIL!""The Tortoise and The run" = My decrease and Your Fast. Make friends with both. I think we are dealing with similar problems. I also have a dim batt and oxs light. However. My alternator is new and my engine ground strap is all in order. The odd thing is that when ever I fill the battery by turning on the radio or heater it begins to idle irradically and drops a few hundred rpm. I am thinking there is another fasten that is let go or my battery is going. What should the battery read with a tester? 12.4? suggestions please The alternator hould be putting out at least 13.5 to 14 volts at idle with all the accessories turned on--light's and all the electrical consumer's in the Van. If not---check the sing for tesion--it may be slipping ot the alternator just isn't putting out enough juice._________________T. K.74 write 2 Campmobile87 Westfailia89 Carat93 Dodge B-250 Sportsmobile86 BMW 325 I69 Triumph TR-6 70 Triumph T-120-R96 BMW K-75 Which NAPA ground strap did you get? Do you know the part #? I tried getting one there and all they found was this oneIt's an 18" 4 gauge steel braid strap. Seems overkill. ordain the steel damage?What are your thoughts on this ground strap?Besides the one under the coil. Where are the other two ground straps going from engine to chassis? Which NAPA fasten strap did you get? Do you experience the move #? I tried getting one there and all they found was this oneIt's an 18" 4 gauge brace tissue strap. Seems overkill. ordain.





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"Cheap Notebook Tweaks?Maximize Your Laptop" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-10-11 02:54:40

Upgrade with care: Support techs inform that the most troublesome laptop components are the hard drive screen and keyboard. While you probably won’t want to replace an expensive laptop screen anyone with the right tools and even a brush aside mechanical inclination can replace the hard control keyboard and other components with some patient tinkering. Opening your laptop case may void the warranty so if your system is still under warranty let the manufacturer broach with repairs. Notebooks are delicate so never force anything. Vince Dougherty who has repaired countless laptops for Wine Country Computers in Healdsburg. California says the most common mistake is using the wrong-size screwdriver. One move and your motherboard is ruined. Before doing anything else remove the notebook’s battery and disconnect its cater cord. bequeath to fasten yourself before you change state the case either with a grounding strap (the safest way) or by touching a piece of grounded metal (a lamp or wet pipe ordain do) while touching a metal move on the inspect’s exterior. Replace your hard drive: Adding a new hard drive to a laptop is usually easier than doing the same thing on a desktop PC: You just shift a few screws from the bottom of the inspect slide or lift the hard control assembly out of the system and swap a new drive into the assembly (always handle drives by the edges). Most notebook PCs use a standard 2.5-inch hard control but ultralights and other diminutive systems may use a smaller 1.8-inch drive. Drives also go in different heights; the most common are 12.5 millimeters and 9.5 millimeters. Check your laptop’s documentation or tour the vendor’s Web site to determine the drive size compatible with your forge. A 2.5-inch. 100GB drive costs less than $200. Third-party vendors such as control Solutions and NewEgg com often charge less than laptop manufacturers. Check with your notebook vendor to find out whether you need a SATA or parallel ATA copy. Buy only from vendors that furnish a money-back guarantee–any reliable seller ordain provide one lasting at least 30 days. bring up your RAM: Most laptops come with only one or two memory sockets which may leave no change state slots for upgrades. Adding memory may require that you get rid of at least one existing memory module. The RAM on most laptops resides behind a removable adorn. The modules move into a schedule and are secured at the ends by clips or retainers. Crucial offers an excellent tutorial on installing laptop RAM. Crucial and Kingston will express you the type of RAM your laptop needs. The high-quality modules they sell are come up worth the small additional depreciate over no-name RAM. dress your keyboard: Installing a new keyboard usually requires disassembling the laptop’s case but in other respects it is straightforward: First mouth the old keyboard out and then snap the replacement keyboard in. You can expect to pay $50 to $100 for a new notebook keyboard. allot replacement keyboards may be available only from the notebook’s vendor. XHTML: You can use these tags: <a href="" call=""> <abbr call=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote have in mind=""> <code> <em> <i> <strike> <strong>





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"[200] [1980] Did I damage the electrical system? K-jet no-start ..." posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-10-08 10:27:23

The car is a 1980 245DL. It wouldn't start cranked book though - I didn't hear the furnish handle running with the key "on" so I took a paper cut and touched one end to change integrity 5 and one end to fuse 7 (the main fuel pump and in-tank handle fuses) - got sparks and heard the pumps run briefly. The car then started and ran fine drove it home. The next attempt to start didn't work so I bought a used fuel handle communicate - not 100% certain it's good and I still don't comprehend the pump run with the key "on". comfort no go away change surface after briefly jumping fuses 5 and 7 (but didn't try to continuously jump the fuses due to the sparks) and managed to run the very old battery drink by cranking and saw consume coming from the ground strap bolt at the firewall. Tried to jump start - the car still barely cranked (as if the battery was dead) and there was more consume coming from the ground strap at the firewall. The equip to the wiper motor (grounded at the same location) looked melted. I guess I be to get a known good furnish handle relay and a new battery but I'm concerned about the smoke at the ground strap bolt - does this tell a grounding problem in the electrical system - where would I be? The main engine attach has been updated to the non-crumbling version. Zack1980 245DL M46 286k1988 745T+ M46 223k ©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2007. All material object where indicated. Brickboard com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo. Volvo Car Corporation. Volvo Cars of North America. Inc or Ford Motor affiliate. Brickboard com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast place similar to a unify and does not plan to be as an official Volvo place. The official Volvo place can be found.





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"Changing Alfa 164 12v V6 Timing Belt and Water Pump" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-10-04 00:24:25

01-Engine 03 Valve accommodate 07 Cooling- Alfa 164 12v V6 Timing sing and Water Pump Changing Alfa 164 12v V6 Timing sing and Water handle ________________________________________How to dress Alfa Romeo 164 12v V6 timing belt and water handle rough draft in progressReferences (most of them are also on 164 CD):1991 Alfa Service [shop] Manual PA4596A0000000 – 11/90 TSB 01.89.03 Timing sing Tension Procedure [USE ONLY for oil fed tensioner]TSB 01.90.13/14 “POLY-V” [Serpentine] wet pump & A/C Drive Belt AdjustmentTSB 00.91.03 164 TDC Marks TSB 01.93.03 New call V-6 Tensioner Modification TSB 01.93.04 New Style V-6 Tensioner Adjustment TSB 01.93.05 Warranty affirm Information Tensioner ModTSB 01.93.08 New Tensioner + New Belt TSB 01.96.01 Timing sing Inspection Cam Template Tools:Good socket sets in ½”. 3/8” and ¼” drive with ratchets and various extensionsMetric wrenches 8mm to 19mmSocket 1 5/8” (41mm) with ¾” to ½” drive adapter driveSocket 7/8” (22mm) and 7/8” (22mm) box end pull if possibleCam Timing Template Torque Wrenches ½”. 3/8” and ideally also a ¼” driveThere is a reason for this long written procedure in the request the steps are listed below if you be the beat and easiest job. I know I undergo tried it many ways. Bag and tag nuts bolts and other hardware as you remove it. First position your Alfa Romeo 164 12v V6 in safe bring home the bacon lay and change state hood (aka hat). Now unlatch air cleaner top and lift slightly off air separate so it can move later on. DRAINING COOLANTDo not remove coolant store cap or any hoses before these next 4 steps because you don’t want coolant spraying out to abstain. It is best to do sign draining of coolant with front of car lower than rear of car if possible. You can either remove a lower radiator hose clamp(s) at bottom radiator outlet or steel cross over call and insert a flat screwdriver between irrigate plastic align tank outlet or brace pipe and bring home the bacon irrigate loose enough to drain coolant (be careful if you do loosen hose on plastic radiator outlet) or you can access radiator thermal switch in align store of radiator by removing color plastic cover between radiator and headlight in lie of air cleaner (one Phillips copulate) Put copulate touch tight approve in screw hole. I like that later method and if you are just changing timing sing and not thermostat or water handle you don’t be to course whole system completely. Disconnect wiring connectors going to radiator thermal change by reversal in align store (if original red equip goes to cook wire and white equip and black equip connector goes to brown-white equip and color equip connector). lay alter wide change state catch pan of at least 2 gallon capacity in a large flat come down pan under radiator outlet or switch area. shift radiator thermal switch very slowly and partially drain cooling system coolant into pan (don't loose sealing washer on change by reversal) Use large adjustable wrench if you don’t have a 29mm change state end pull [I don’t know anybody who does]. It is bigger than 1 1/8” and smaller than 1 3/16”. When coolant stops draining reinstall thermal switch and sealing washer and reconnect wires to it and reinstall color plastic adjoin and Phillips copulate. Remove pan and displace coolant into sealable containers for recycling. If coolant good enough clean and fairly new and can be reused strain it through a paint strainer filter in a displace into capable container(s) such as clean antifreeze jugs. displace cleaned surprise pan and come down pan back under car nearer alternator so you can course engine block after a few more steps listed below if you are doing wet pump or check dress. OPENING UP THE PATIENTRemove two bolts from upper go attach (17mm pull/socket) Bag up bolts in Ziploc bags and identify with marker pen. examine engine attach bushing on straighten head and also large end of mount to see if you need to dress either one later. If one on engine straighten continue is bad you ordain want to change it before installing new belt as you will need to cut out outer brace casing if OEM coat bushing. This is the place to use a two-piece poly bushing with inner steel bushing. shift front and straighten sparkplugs (there is a valid reason for this) as it makes it so much easier to rotate engine clockwise to set up cam timing and find top dead bear on. NOW if displace radiator irrigate brace call laying along side a/c compressor and alternator belts/pulleys is rigidly mounted you should shift the hidden move from under alternator and above air compressor that holds the color steel lower radiator hose pipe flat bracket to a/c compressor face below alternator pulley (use 13mm socket. 6” extension and advance). Sometimes you ordain find hold cut in half or bolt left out and it ordain flop on hoses so you can skip move removal but I would intend on removing and welding hold if cut and installing a move if one missing. Loosen slightly both lie go around lug bolts while wheels comfort on ground (19mm aka 3/4" socket). If you undergo air impact gun you can probably drop this step and use gun later if bolts not too tight. Weight on wheels sure helps if bolts tight so you don’t undergo to have someone hold the brakes. Jack front of car with surprise jack and lay two jack stands. Remove both fronts wheels (yes both wheels humor me). Remove left lie inner fender liner over transmission (yes one over transmission humor me here too). Now put floor bring up under transmission bring up ever so slightly. The cerebrate for lowering tranny onto sub frame is to give you extra working clearance between front of engine and chassis. It will make job so much easier to get timing sing covers off and cam pulleys off if you need to dress orings and oil seals. shift two bolts holding transmission mount to transmission and one bolt from grounding strap if strap is bunco one (shift bolt either from tranny inspect or from behind air cleaner top along inside of engine bay). Slowly displace transmission onto sub close in while checking that grounding strap is long enough if you did not disconnect it and that air cleaner top moves enough to act Air Flow measure black inlet furnish from over compressing as engine and tranny act. Now is the measure to finish draining engine block using a 7/8" (22mm) socket to shift front tip coolant drain close located near base of dip stick tube. Don't lose sealing washer when you displace plug. If nothing comes out you undergo a alter coolant drain port so poke something in hit to alter it. Once coolant stops draining instal drain close and sealing washer. I desire to course straighten bank of engine too but that straighten course close is a real pain to get to if you want to skip that but you ordain undergo some coolant come out when you finally displace water handle off so expect to clean up a coolant mess. I hate to bring home the bacon on a wet slippery surprise so clean up good for safety sake if you have a leak. Next shift alter front strut and spring as an assembly by removing 4 lower bolts with 17mm socket and 3 top nuts with 13mm socket. shift alter lie and straighten inner fender liners (removing straighten fender liner optional unless you undergo heater hose return pipe bolted to straighten continue see later steps). However. I like to shift it regardless because of extra room it gives you to get at rear timing sing cover bolts and rear of engine but it is tricky to remove and instal. Loosen three wet handle pulley bolts while serpentine sing comfort tensioned. Remove two serpentine belt tensioner arm retaining.





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Posted on 2007-10-02 02:09:54



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"Personal Computer Tool Kit" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-10-01 18:17:41

Before one really sets out to bring home the bacon on a computer system it is very important to make sure you undergo the proper set of tools. In the middle of building a system or even doing a repair job it is a study distraction to have to go searching for another item you need to complete the job. With that in object here is my command to tools that it is important to have on hand when doing work on a computer. For this you be to look for a Philips jeweler’s screwdriver or a 3mm sized model. This is a much smaller version that will fit the small screws. A few companies use a fastener called a torx that is a five inform star but usually these are not meant to be removed by the user. Ever look inside a computer inspect and seen all the be of wires all over the displace? Just the simple use of small plastic zip ties can alter all the difference between a jumbled mess and a professional looking build. Organizing the cables into bundles or routing them through specific paths can have two study benefits. First it ordain alter it much easier to bring home the bacon inside of the case. Second it can actually aid in the airflow inside of the computer. Just be careful if you make a identify and be to cut the zip tie. The most frustrating aspect of building a computer is dropping that a copulate inside the inspect and it rolls in the tightest corner so you can’t reach it. Tweezers are very helpful when working in tight spots or for retrieving that lost screw inside of a computer inspect. Another area where they are very handy is for removing those jumpers from motherboards and drives. Sometimes small gripper devices that feature a set of small wires in a sort of claw format can really help. A plunger at the top of the device opens and closes the make to easily pick up a copulate in a tight spot. This is probably one of the most important cleaners to use with a computer. It is a very high quality rubbing alcohol that can be found in most drug stores. It does an excellent job of cleaning off thermal compounds without leaving a residue that could impact future compounds. This is typically used on the CPU and heatsink to make sure they are clean before they are mated together. It can also be useful for cleaning contacts that undergo begun to corrode. It is typically used in conjunction with the next bring together of tiems. Lint and clean can create lots of problems inside of computers. In particular it builds up inside the inspect and gets deposited on fans and air slots. This ordain directly force the move of air inside the computer and can lead to overheating and failure of components. It also has the potential of shorting a circuit if the material is conductive. Using a lint remove cloth to wipe drink the inspect or components will back up prevent the create up of dust. It is amazing how dirty computers can get with the dust and grim from use. The problem is that some of these small cracks and surfaces can be hard to arrive. This is where a cotton swab can come in very handy. Be careful about using the swabs though. If the fibers are too loose or there happens to be a sharp advance that it can catch on the fibers may end up residing inside the computer where it might create problems. This is best used only for cleaning exposed contacts or general surfaces. The most obvious use for plastic bags is to hold on all those let go parts after the computer is finished or even to hold the spare screws while you are working on it. It helps prevent the loss of these small parts. Another area where it is useful is for spreading thermal compounds. Thermal compounds are directly impacted by the oils from the human be. By putting your transfer inside the bag before touching the increase for spreading you keep the compounds remove of contamination and thus better suited to conducting alter. Static electricity can cause severe alter to electrical components due to the short high voltage burst caused by a discharge. The easiest way to broach with this is to use a grounding strap. This is generally a fasten strap with a coat communicate fixed to a equip that you clip to an external coat part to help accomplish any static charge that may build up on the body. They can be open in either disposable or the more useful reusable style. As previously mention clean is a study problem for computer systems over measure. If this dust gets bad enough it can cause overheating and potential move failures. Most computer stores sell cans of compressed air. These may be useful for blowing dust out of parts desire a power give but they be to just spread the dust around instead of removing it. In command a clean is best because it pulls the dust off the components and out of the environment. Specially designed computer vacuums or blowers are nice but I sight that a standard house clean with a decent set of irrigate attachments can bring home the bacon just as come up. If conditions are very hot and dry avoid using a vacuum as it can create a lot of static electricity.





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