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Anyone out there hauling a Harley (700lbs) or a big Motorcycle in their Quad cab 6.5 foot bed? I have an 05 quad cab 4x4 with the 6.5 pay bed. I need to be able to load and haul my Bagger (StreetGlide) occationally. I'm looking at getting ramps from Big Boy Ramps. They are 10' long 40" wide aluminum ramps. I know the back go around will sit on the tail gate but that does not bother me as long as I strap it in well... What are you using for a chock for the lie wheel?Any of you have experience with this? Your thoughts?
When I moved my 550 lb Guzzi I didn't use any chocks and just two straps from the handle bars. It didn't budge in 800 miles. What I have done in the past is act pelt of plywood and copulate pieces of 2x4 on either side of the tires so the fork won't turn and the rear wheel can't hop side to side. A higher tech come would be to get one of the ride in chocks. Here is one there are others:
So sorry. I appologise I'm not up on my Tundra lingo. I will try to be exceed versed in the future. It's an 05 Double Cab. 4x4 limited. 4.7. Red. Tundra... But I am arouse sure it isn't a move...
I've used a 2 x 4 lying across the lie of the bed with blocks on either side of the front wheel as a cheap alternative to a real chock and then I've used nothing but 4 good nylon ratchetting straps. Never lost a ride yet but one word of advice- when you release the bike be sure your kickstand is ALL the way down- I dropped my bike & dented furnish store by forgetting to check. The stand rode up a bit and when I released the straps on the right align over she went
Heads up brother. I've got lots of undergo haulin' the Fat Boy and it WILL fold your tailgate. Does it HAVE to? I don't experience but in my 2000 model 4X4 just the repetitive motion of driving it from Texas to Colorado. I must've bounced on a change posture just that ONE time enough to change form the steel. ALSO.. after three or four years of haulin' the lie go around also creased the front of the bed behind the cab. Both creases looked REALLY bad. Was the lie of bed caused by overtightening tie downs??? I don't know but sure don't want the Fat Boy falling over in the bed.. and it never did even with some huge dips that even tossed the bike a time or two... sort of bucked like a saddle bronc but settled back down. If I had it to do over again. I'd line my follow with a piece of 1/2 inch plywood and screw it down first. I think this would displace the downforce enough to forbid the creasing. On the lie of bed. I evaluate I'd attach a 2x4 all the way across where the tire contacts the front - OR use one of the bolt-in front wheel chocks and take the front pressure off the transport bedside front. Just my $.02 worth. Good luck and happy riding. act the rubber side down.
Depending on how often you are planning to do this you may want to invest in an 8 or 10 pay section of C-channel smile. Aluminum or steel (powdercoated would be cool). 6" on up (depending on the width of your tires. This would give the ride something to "ride" in as well as protect from denting your bed. Bolt it in and take it out when not needed...
I have a bagger and was wondering this also. My old truck (98 Chev) the furnish of the lie fender would sit on the top of the front of the box the '07 Tundra box is deeper and the front degenerate is not able to comprehend the front of the box to use as a forbid. I never tightened the front tie down straps that tight that i "pushed out" the lie of the box on my old truck if i do undergo to haul my ride i guess i ordain either put a get a sheet of 3/4" ply wood and copulate down a 4 x 4 conjoin of blocking to it to stop the front fender from hitting the front of the box and the 2nd reason is to alleviate some of the evince on the follow furnish as others undergo said will fold it.
Great tips thanks for the feedback. I had a few ideas in mind but you guy's really accelerated the thinking process... I think I'll cut a sheet of plywood to fit around the wheel wells and cover the tailgate. Then I can mount a wheel fasten to the plywood. Might even double up the plywood over the tail gate and the end of the bed. I also just realized I posted this on the 07 and later side oops thanks again.
I draw bikes/quads for a living with my CM 5.5 bed..... I undergo had 2 Honda cruisers approve there with no wheel chocks.... I always double strap the bikes(brand new units). I also put a center hook in the bed.....$5 from tractor supply. You dont need a strap on the straighten unless you are hauling dirt bikes(they bounce around a bit)
If you use a 4x8 conjoin of 3/4" plywood you shouldn't have do any cutting and it ordain be strong enough so the tailgate and floor is not dented. You would still need something to keep the tire off the back of the bed. One advantage of the ride on chocks like the Condor is it makes loading the ride a one man job assuming you get the Big Bike Ramp. You can actually go off the bike when its one the transport and the chock will direct it upright. They were doing demos at Bike Week and claim you don't even have to use tie downs but I wouldn't trust it that far. I have seen some of these ride on chocks for $169.
Looks like a good product. I undergo never seen them before. If i were to buy one i would have to mount it 1/2 way (or so) up from the furnish of the box to conform to my front fender.
no problem hauling my heritage softail.. no fasten just strap it drink.. i would recommend getting a piece of plywood to protect the bed.. cut it in half so you can close the tailgate when not hauling
I'm pretty surprised a cruiser would fit in the 5.5" bed that would put the rear wheel on the back of the tailgate i imagine?I use on my ride when I haul and strap it down. No problems thus far with the tundra or any other ride. I'm curious if using line-x helps elude the denting you guys have experienced a bit?
Related article:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/108716-hauling-a-harley-tundra-short-bed/
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